How to Purchase a Flute

There are many options when you are choosing a flute. It can be a little overwhelming. Below are a list of all the options that I can think of. Under each category of flute I have listed the options available in each level of flute by number. I hope this helps you choose your flute.

Beginner Flute

This is a flute that is a silver plated, closed hole, C foot instrument. The silver plating is superficial and makes no difference to the performance of the instrument. The metal underneath the silver plating is nickel silver and if the metal has been power forged, the keywork should be quite strong, as it should be for a beginner instrument in the hands of a novice. The Beginner Flute can also come with a curved headjoint that brings the flute body closer for shorter arms. The silver plating does protect you from the more porous metal underneath, especially on the lip plate. It protects the skin from any kind of allergic reaction. If you are looking at second hand instruments, DO NOT purchase an instrument where the silver plating on the lip plate is in any way NOT PERFECT.

It is also a good idea to stick to name brands as there are so many cheap instruments flooding the market and I have to say we see these particular instruments in the hands of unhappy customers on a daily basis.

If you are a novice purchaser, please feel free to contact us with any questions you have.

The options that all beginner flutes have are:

  • Option #19 - Offset G keys - This is useful as it makes holding the flute easier for smaller hands.
  • Options #5 - Split E mechanism - I personally think this option is not necessary on a beginner flute.
  • Option #12 - Drawn toneholes

Intermediate Flute

When you have been playing a flute for 2-5 years it really is time to move on to a more advanced instrument. Here is where it starts to get complicated with many options.

On an intermediate flute there are the following options:

Semi-Professional Flute

If you have reached the level of heading to University Level study this is a must and a minimum.

In addition to the options in the intermediate flute the Semi-Professional flute has the following options:

Professional Flute

The professional flute is characterized by all the qualities of the Semi-professional flute and some of the following:



Flute Purchase Options


Option #1 - Sterling Silver Headjoint

This is pretty much standard with an intermediate flute. The reason most flutes are made out of Sterling Silver is that Sterling Silver makes a better sound. The head joint is the most important part of the flute so obviously a Sterling Silver head joint would be better. A Sterling Silver headjoint increases the dynamic range of the instrument which means that you have more volume range to work with. The player grows into the head joint and begins to produce more sound and have more control over this new found ability. Like any wind instrument, if a player stays too long on a student headjoint/mouthpiece it may hinder their progress.
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Option #2 - Open Hole vs Closed Hole

Moving on to an open hole flute is definitely a move in the right direction. If you have an incorrect hand position this will show itself with an open hole flute. You simply have to have a correct hand position to be able to cover the holes. The most common problem is covering the G open hole. Moving from a closed hole flute to an open hole requires a plan. Firstly, plug the holes!! Plugs often come with the flute or your friendly technician can put plugs in for you. Now remove the plugs one by one starting at the bottom D. Don't rush and do it hole by hole. SUDDENLY (like learning to ride a 2-wheel bike) you can cover all the holes confidently. Not everyone agrees that there is a difference between open hole and closed hole. Some say that the venting of lifting your finger on an open hole flute, AND lifting the key gives a quicker response and clarity. Also on an open hole, glissandos, pitch bends, and microtones are possible.
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Option #3 - B foot vs C foot

This is definitely a preference one way or the other. The French flautists prefer the C foot as they say that the flute plays better with a C foot. I would say that it plays differently, and, perhaps it does perform better with a C foot. For flutes with a silver headjoint, the argument for a C foot is that the flute is 'headjoint heavy' and balances better with a B foot. The B foot does increase the overall weight of the instrument. There are many arguments for both. I think that the B foot produces a darker, fuller tone and improves the intonation of the third octave. Also, it gives more fullness of sound in the lower octave.
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Option #4 - All Sterling Silver Tubing

This definitely gives the flute more volume and presence. The dynamic range is enlarged and the sound projects more. If you are planning to carry on past the intermediate level I would suggest that you not take this option, but if this is as far as you want to go it is a great option. At an intermediate level this will give you an edge. Simply compare and you will experience the difference in sound. It is more of a sideways step rather than a forward step as the headjoint (the most important part) does not change and therefore does not really move your playing forward much. YET, there is so much more sound and projection and if this as far as you want to go, there is an advantage with the fuller sound. Semi Professional Flutes and Professional Flutes require this option.
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Option #5 - Split E Mechanism

This is where the G keys move independently which allows the lower G key to close when the 3rd octave E is played. The most obvious advantage is that it IS easier to slur from the second octave E to the third octave E. It also ensures a smooth slur between the 3rd octave A and E. It does not alter the pitch on any note. The down side is that there are 2 more adjustments on the flute to accommodate the split E - that means 2 more adjustments that can go out of adjustment. Some say that it adds 'value' to the instrument. It really depends on the buyer.
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Option #6 - Handmade Mechanism

This is a better balanced, more delicate mechanism. It tends to have slightly smaller 'French pointed' keys. The better balanced keys allow for a more even spring tension. The adjustment can be fine tuned as the mechanism is better designed. These characteristics make it easier to play with a 'light touch' and with more relaxed fingers. It cannot be stressed too much that, if a player is striving towards a professional career as a flautist, that they have an instrument that doesn't hold them back.
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Option #7 - Straubinger or High quality Felt Pads

Because the mechanism on the semi-professional flute can be set-up better it allows the use of a better quality pad. These pads are not as forgiving as a student pad, which has softer felt. This, like the better mechanism, allows the technician to be able to set up the flute more precisely. These pads are less affected by weather and too much practicing.
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Option #8 - Semi-Professional Headjoint (Sterling Silver)

This is a more advanced headjoint. This level of headjoint is still machine cut but it has more resistance, produces the lower range more easily and projects more. Visually, the front of the lip plate drops off more than a student/intermediate head joint.
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Option #9 - Pinless Mechanism

In addition to what was said about the mechanism, we have the pinless mechanism. In a pinned mechanism some of the keys are pinned (attached ) to the rod. This means that when some of the keys move, the rod moves as well. This makes some key movements feel different from others. On a pinless mechanism the rod does not move and there is very little difference in feel amongst any of the keys. This allows for a more stable adjustment and eliminates binding which occurs on traditional mechanisms. The mechanism is smoother and quieter. This allows a very even spring tension throughout and also a very light even action. Only certain manufacturers use this style of mechanism. It is a superior mechanism.
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Option #10 - Handmade Headjoint

This headjoint is hand made in that the embouchure hole is finished by hand. The headjoint can be made of various metals such as Sterling Silver, 9ct, 10ct, or 14ct gold, or even platinum. Undercutting done by hand gives the head joint more resistance. Headjoint makers are very skilled at their craft and the best headjoints, by far, are made by these artists. This is a must at the professional level. It does take time to select your headjoint and over your playing career you may have many headjoints.
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Option #11 - Riser

This is the little chimney that supports the lip plate above the headjoint tubing. Adding a 14ct gold riser to a SS headjoint puts many 'gold' qualities into the sound. There are many handmade headjoints that use precious metals not only in the riser but also on the lip late itself. There is no end to the possibilities of combinations with the headjoint, lip plate, and tubing and it is up to you to try many and purchase what works best for you.
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Option #12 - Drawn toneholes

These give a quick flexible response and rich, resonant timbre. Drawn toneholes are standard on Student and Intermediate level flutes. The toneholes are 'drawn' up from the body by a special machine. There is no solder seam on the tonehole and therefore no chance of a leaking tonehole seam.
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Option #13 - Soldered Toneholes

This means that instead of the tonehole being 'drawn' from the tubing, the tonehole is actually soldered on to the tube. This allows more possibilities with the toneholes as they are shaped to give more resistance and darker and deeper timbre. You as the player have to decide. Soldered toneholes are the most popular on Professional flutes.
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Option #14 - Precious Metals

At this level of flute many precious metals are used such as 9ct gold, 14ct gold with silver keys or gold keys. Probably the most popular options are a Sterling Silver body and keys or a 14ct body with Sterling Silver keys, and headjoint with a 14ct gold riser. Any combination can work. Ask us.
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Option #15 - Thin Wall/Standard Wall/Thick Wall

The standard thickness (thickness of the metal) is .38mm and this tends to give a flexible and resonant sound. The thicker wall is .42mm - .45mm and gives a much darker sound. A thinner wall gives a lighter sound more suited to chamber playing. Standard thickness is the most popular.
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Option #16 - C# trill

This key simplifies many awkward trills and tremolos. It gives an easier B-C# trill, a reliable G-A trill by fingering G and trilling C3 and the D together. It also trills from high F#-G#, and Ab-Bb. The C# trill dramatically improves the pitch and clarity. It moves several LH fingerings to the RH. It also provides an additional vent that clarifies several notes. This is a very useful key yet it is a very 'delicate' key that can be easily 'bumped' out of adjustment.
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Option #17 - Lower G Insert - less expensive than the split E.

It is a crescent shaped insert epoxied or soldered into the lower G tonehole. It may lower the pitch of A1 and A. A good option and less expensive than the Split-E mechanism. It is a good option.
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Option #18 - Gizmo key

This is the touch piece on the low B key and it is high C facilitator. Depressing it helps a produce a 4th octave C. It also makes the 3rd octave speak easier. Slurring to the 3rd octave F# can be easier as well by depressing only this key (no C# or C).
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Option #19 - Inline vs off-Set G keys OR 'Slight' Offset G keys

There is no tonal difference between the two/three. An 'In-line' mechanism is more prone to 'binding' keys as well as 'strength/longevity' problems. There can be binding (sluggishness or worse) in the Bb key. With the off-set G keys it is easier to reach for small hands. The G keys are on a separate rod therefore separating it from the Bb key and its' binding problems. The 'slight' offset which suits more hand shapes is most popular as it is not as extreme and solves all the problems.
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